Madeira’s wild, natural beauty and oasis of splendor certainly left its mark on me. Not wanting to keep the gorgeous gorgeousity to myself, please consider the following ideas for your next trip - whether you are actively planning or merely dreaming.
Onwards & upwards!
#armchairtravels #nosisterstandsalone #travelswitheleanor
*All images subject to copyright.
Eleanor Lumsden
Getting There
Unless you are yachting in, you will likely fly into the Cristiano Ronaldo International Airport. The airport has several names, yet is most commonly referred to as Madeira Airport, or Aeroporto da Madeira in Portuguese. The airport is located in the capital city of Funchal (airport code FNC), on Madeira’s main island. The journey from Lisbon (LIS) takes 1 hour and 45 minutes and there are frequent, daily departures.
From Lisbon, round trip flights can cost anywhere from €50 to €200+ euros, depending on your travel dates. When I flew in mid-June 2021, the round trip flight on TAP Portugal cost €84,99.
Native son, Cristiano Ronaldo, is the pride of Madeira.
Madeira is comprised of three separate island groups, including Madeira Island, Porto Santo, and the Desertas and Selvagens Islands. Most casual visitors will choose to arrive on Madeira Island.
For those who want to spend a day lying on sandy beaches, fishing, or visiting nature preserves, day trips are available by ferry to Porto Santo and the other islands. The journey to Porto Santo takes approximately 2.5 hours each way. On a clear day, you can sometimes glimpse the outline of Desertas from Funchal.
Getting Around
Yes, you might look really cool riding around in this surf bus. If you’re going to explore independently, be sure to find a ride that can reliably navigate the STEEP hills and narrow, winding roads of Madeira.
I paid €204 euros for 14 days, including GPS. I found a package deal by combining my “hotel” with my car through booking.com. Gas for the duration of my stay cost €43.
I did not purchase additional car insurance over and above the required minimum. Thankfully, I didn’t have any mishaps but that decision ended up giving me daily heartburn.
My advice? Get the insurance.
Where to Stay
Câmara de Lobos (Literally, “Municipal chamber of the sea-wolves”)
Most short-term visitors, or those in town for the famed New Years’ celebrations, will find it convenient to stay right in Funchal. No need to rent a car, and all the shopping, good eats, and a range of hotels are all within strolling distance. Also, most tours will start from Funchal, making it an easy job to organize your out of town adventures.
For non-confident drivers (or just those afraid of heights or looong, dark tunnels), Funchal is probably your best choice. Generally, the roads are well-paved and in excellent condition but first-timers beware! I consider myself a very confident driver, but many of the inclines still gave me pause.
But for the independent, adventurous, and budget-minded, there is another way. And, in my opinion, a better way.
Beyond Funchal
The view from my sun-soaked balcony at Casa do Vale. Picture yourself watching the fog roll over the mountain in the morning and the sun setting over the ocean in the evening.
You can potentially double the bang for your buck by choosing to stay in other parts of the island. Wanting to cook, to have plenty of space for family to relax, and to be close to the digital nomad community in Ponta do Sol, I chose Calheta.
For TWO bedrooms, a fully-stocked kitchen, floor to ceiling windows opening onto the wrap-a-round balcony, cooling ocean breezes, plus the view you see above (and allows pets!), I paid €537 (€38/night).
The view from my driveway
However, if you’re looking for a non-self-catering holiday that is still outside of Funchal, here are the Calheta hotels that looked enticing:
1st place: Savoy Saccharum Resort & Spa (incl. rooftop infinity pool + massage services)
2nd place: Socalco Nature Hotel (This is the kind of place that would usually be my #1. However, unless there’s a hidden funicular that I missed… they lost a few points due to accessibility.)
Opting NOT to drive down the single lane, heart-pounding drive to the hotel, I parked my car in the car park down below, and then walked (slowly, stopping frequently to catch my breath) up to check out the grounds.
You can look down and see the hillside eco studios of this hotel from the outside deck of MUDAS, the Contemporary Art Museum (featured in the short clip below).
Honorable Mention: Calheta Beach - an All Inclusive Hotel
My jeep tour mates invited me to join them one evening. We listened to live music as the sun went down while they surreptitiously passed me free drinks.
The hotel is adjacent to one of the few sandy beaches on the island, and right across the street from a Pingo Doce grocery store and a taxi stand so you could conceivably order a RT airport transport and then live without a car. Explore the almost hidden marina filled with restaurants (and the Savoy’s private tennis court) or let the tour operators organize fishing trips or tours of the nearby islands.
Where to Work
I traveled to Madeira to check out Startup Madeira’s pilot project, Digital Nomads Madeira Islands. Learning more about such projects was directly relevant to my research, I thought the space was about to shut down, and Madeira was boasting lower than average COVID-19 case numbers. I took a calculated risk.
The island already had rigorous safety protocols in place (including requiring all passengers to provide proof of a negative test 48 hours prior to arrival and to register with their Madeira Safe website), but I also implemented a few of my own. Although they had a nice and airy interior co-working space, I worked exclusively in the outdoor space pictured above.
Despite being probably a good 10-15 years older than most of the nomads there, I found the cosmopolitan community to be warm, welcoming to newcomers, and tight-knit. Through their SLACK channel, they offer one unified point of connection and a fascinating mix of activities, like sunset socials, community lunches, beach clean-ups, yoga, meditation, hiking, and much more.
I highly recommend checking out their space(s) if you’re looking to work, but crave community during your island adventures.
Otherwise, the stunning (and mostly empty during the day) Design Center Nini Andrade Silver in Funchal also has beautiful co-working spaces. OR… skip work and enjoy cocktails at their rooftop bar, which overlooks both Funchal and the ocean.
*Pro-tip: Don’t pay $$ for parking at the CR7 Museum before driving onto the jetty to see if the Design Center’s adjacent guest parking spots (2) are open!
Where to Play
Check out canyoning and coasteering tours with Epic Madeira.
The most popular, self-propelled activity is to hike the many Levada Walks on the island. There are easy, medium, and difficult hikes to suit all tastes. Avoid hiking alone. It’s easy to find people to hike with through the digital nomads group.
In Part II of this series, I mentioned coasteering or canyoneering. Epic Madeira gives adventure tours to suit all levels. Although I would have loved to try each of these activities, I spent most of my days working, followed by dinner, then short evening drives along the coasts.
During my final days, I did enjoy a couple of sightseeing day tours:
The full day North Island Jeep Tour by Get Your Guide (door to door service, even in Calheta! (€68);
The 1/2 day Nun’s Valley tour by Lido Tours (€19); and
The 2-day “3-in-1” Funchal Hop on, Hop Off city bus tour (Funchal, Câmara de Lobos and Cabo Girão, €22).
The first two were worth every penny. Hop on, hop off tours can be useful in orienting yourself to a new destination, especially if you’re short on time. I found this one scenic and useful, albeit tiresome. With the exception of the stop in Câmara de Lobos, I was content to stay on the bus. When I return, I will make room for hiking boots.
Other Useful Tips & Considerations
Ponta do Pargo Lighthouse, Madeira
If you forget something at home or want to do a little shopping, Forum Madeira is an indoor-outdoor shopping mall located in Funchal. A Pingo Doce is located on Floor 0 and there’s paid parking directly underneath.
The International Business Centre of Madeira has interesting tax incentives for businesses relocating to Madeira. If this an opportunity that interests you, reach out. They are extremely responsive.
These days, whenever I travel, I like to check out local real estate. (I almost put this note under the “Play” category.) Prices in Madeira seem to be on a steady upswing, but when I visited, there were several breathtaking 2-3 bedroom, ocean-front properties outside of Funchal in the €275k - 350k range. So for about the price of a one-bedroom tear down in San Francisco…
I could have written a separate “Where to Eat” section, but in Portugal, when you consider the cost/benefit ratio, you can almost never make a mistake.
As Fontes do Horácio (€€), a local place recommended by my host, deserves a special mention. Located on a winding back road in Estreito da Calheta (and <15 minutes from Casa do Vale), the food was simple, fresh, and delicious. I recommend that you choose a sunny afternoon and spend a lazy couple of hours enjoying several courses on their roadside veranda. My entire meal - including appetizer, entree, 2 glasses of wine, dessert and coffee - cost €17.60. The service was friendly and attentive, the vibe relaxed and comfortable. Highly recommend.
Money Matters
If you’re keeping track, the amounts above do not include purchases for groceries or toiletries (sunscreen! aloe! forgotten flip flops!) (around €100), cards and souvenirs for family & friends (priceless), or a couple of lunches out (generally, €9 - €12 each).
I obviously could have spent more money. I could have scrimped more too. Ultimately, I chose a middle path. Only you will know what’s right for you. For myself, I will say that every decision was WORTH IT.
Madeira is now in my heart.
(*Note: The above tips and suggestions applied to my visit in June 2021. Please check for current information before you travel.)
The Bottomline
I hope that all of the above gives you an idea of how to swing your own trip to Madeira, whether it be for business or pleasure.
Curral das Freiras (Valley of the Nuns)
“Not all those who wander are lost.”
- JRR Tolkien